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Buren's Columns

Le Palais Royal was the official residence of Cardinal de Richelieu, the Kingdom's most powerful minister and a true born Parisian. Although Alexandre Dumas' Three Musketeers is a work of fiction, D'Artagnan and his three inseparable companions are real French historic figures.

Photograph by Gnarfgnarf

 

 

Walking Tour 1: Quartier Latin (8 km)

Walking Tour 1: Quartier Latin

 

From its humble beginnings as the Roman city of Lutetia, the Latin Quarter later became Paris' student district, home to one of Europe's medieval universities, la Sorbonne. Latin was then widely spoken, hence the Quarter's name. Today, you can leave your Latin dictionary at home and you do not need to dig out cobble stones, used during the student riots in the May 1968, to fully enjoy this lively -and, ahem, very scholarly- district.

1. Statue de Sainte Geneviève
Sainte Geneviève is the patron saint of Paris. In the 5th century, she is said to have protected Paris from Attila the Hun's invasion. She was buried in the Sainte-Geneviève Abbey, on the site of the present Lycée Henri IV, located on the Montagne Sainte Geneviève, or Saint Geneviève Hill. Her relics can now be found in the Church of Saint-Etienne-du-Mont.

2. Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris
Make sure you pay a visit to Paris' grand dame and enjoy the parvis -the open space- in front. Fancy experiencing 2000 years of urban evolution? Descend into the archaeological crypt, and have a look at the remains of the heart of Paris.

3. Square Viviani-Montebello and Eglise Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre
The Viviani-Montebello garden sits along the Seine and offers great views of Notre Dame. Do sit under the leaning locust tree (Robinia pseudoacacia), lovingly propped up by concrete shores. It is said to have been planted around 1600 by Monsieur Robin, royal gardener, making it the city's oldest tree. The garden leads to the Church of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. This church is one of the oldest in Paris. It was built on a former Merovingian pilgrimage site between the 12th and 13th centuries. The building was later modified at different times until the 19th century. Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre was a Roman Catholic church until 1889 when it became a Melkite Greek Catholic church. When visiting the Church of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, look out for the carvings of harpies, winged Greek mythological creatures, at the top of the columns. The church is also famous for its iconostasis, a wall covered with paintings of icons, dating back to 1900.

4. Thermes de Cluny
The Thermes de Cluny were Lutetia's bath complex. They were built in the 3rd century, when the civilized Romans brought their ideas on personal hygiene to Gaul's barbarian tribes. In the 14th century, the bath remains were partially integrated into the Hôtel de Cluny. Today, the Hôtel de Cluny is home to the Museum of the Middle Ages. It houses a collection of Medieval objects, including the intriguing Dame à la licorne -The lady and the Unicorn- tapestries. After this foray into the past, make sure you head for the adjoining Medieval-inspired garden and recently refurbished playground.

5. La Sorbonne
La Sorbonne University was founded in 1253, by theologian Robert de Sorbon. It was part of the medieval University of Paris. The current buildings, except for the 17th century Chapel facing the place de la Sorbonne, date back to the late 19th century, when the Sorbonne was rebuilt. In 1968, student riots spilled out into the surrounding Latin Quarter, and eventually led to nationwide strikes. Make sure you philosophise as you wander around the Sorbonne (the buildings are closed to the public). Depending on the students' political / social agenda, you might catch a whiff of the "Mai 68" revolutionary spirit. If not, you can part with a few euros and have a scholarly espresso in one of the many cafés.

6. Le Panthéon
The Panthéon was built in the second half of the 18th century, and was at first intended to be a church in honour of Sainte Geneviève, patron saint of Paris. The building, designed by Jacques-Germain Soufflot, caused many heated debates at the time : the triple dome was thought by some to be too heavy and it was said it would tumble down... But that was just the beginning of the Panthéon saga... By the time the building was finished, it was the French Revolution, and the Panthéon was declared a mausoleum for outstanding Frenchmen, instead of a church. In the 19th century, the mausoleum was turned into a church, then a mausoleum again, and later a church once more. Nowadays -and ever since 1895- the Panthéon is a mausoleum for "les grands hommes", great Frenchmen, and two women mind you, who served the nation. Take in the Panthéon's schizophrenic history and architectural creativeness while admiring (a copy of) Léon Foucault's pendulum, oscillating proof of planet Earth's rotation.

7. Eglise Saint-Etienne-du-Mont
The Church of Saint-Etienne-du-Mont is located to the North-East of the Panthéon, on the Montagne Sainte Geneviève. The current building dates back to the 15th century, and was constructed on the site of a chapel of the Sainte Geneviève abbey. Saint Geneviève's relics are kept here. Saint-Etienne-du-Mont is also special from an architectural point of view : the nave is curved, and the church is home to Paris' last remaining choir screen.

Head to Rue Mouffetard either via either (8) or (9)

8. Place de l'Estrapade
Enjoy this pleasant little open space and bubbling fountain, and do not think too much about it's gruesome history. L'estrapade -or strappato- was in fact a type of torture where the victim was suspended by the hands, after having his arms tied behind his back... Louis XIII banned this form of torture in the 17th century.

9. Place sur la rue de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève
Along rue de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève, in front of the former site of Ecole Polytechnique is a small and pleasant square. The Ecole Polytechnique, an engineering school, also known as l'X, was established in 1794 and later became a military school. Cool off at the square's fountain and if you are lucky, catch the cherry trees in bloom.

10. Rue Mouffetard
The rue Mouffetard already existed in the 1st century, and was part of the Roman road linking Paris to Orléans. Some claim the name Mouffetard comes from "Mont-Cétard", as this thoroughfare was known in the 8th century. "Mouffetard" might also have derived from "Faubourg Saint Médard", following the name of the church that sits at the lower end of the rue Mouffetard today. Rue Mouffetard is a lively neighbourhood, with many shops, restaurants and cafés. Whether you are into fresh produce markets, laid back cafés or relaxed nightlife, be sure to hit "la Mouff".

11. Place de la Contrescarpe
Along the rue Mouffetard sits the Place de la Contrescarpe with its many cafés and a few intriguing names on the facades.

12. Les Arènes de Lutèce
Les Arènes, a Roman amphitheatre, were built during the 1st century. During the construction of the Wall of Philippe-Auguste in the early 13th century, les Arènes were filled in. It was not until the 19th century, when the rue Monge was built, that les Arènes were "discovered", and restoration works started. The wild animals, gladiators and civilised citizens have long disappeared. Today come mingle with the pétanque aficionados or aspiring teenage football stars. There also is a good-sized playground that gets very busy on sunny afternoons : let the kindergarden lions loose!

13. La Grande Mosquée de Paris
La Grande Mosquée de Paris, France's biggest mosque, was opened in 1926. The mudéjar style building has pleasant gardens and courtyards, as well as a main prayer hall, a madrasa and a library. Craving for a lip-sticking sweet mint tea or couscous? In need of a vigorous body exfoliation and steam bath? Make your way to the café/ restaurant / hammam entrance on rue Geoffroy de Saint Hilaire.

14. Jardin des Plantes
Tired of urban rambling? Cannot deal with another cobblestone? Head to the Jardin des Plantes. This Botanical Garden was founded in 1635, as the king's medicinal garden. Over the years, different gardens and buildings were added, mostly dedicated to the study of plants, animals and earth sciences. There is a garden for every mood in the Jardin des Plantes : enjoy a stroll in the formal garden, sniff about the rose garden or climb up the labyrinth. Had enough of Paris' gray skies and neatly trimmed trees? Travel to hot and humid lands in the greenhouses or yodel in the alpine garden. And if that still ain't enough, test your botanical knowledge by squinting at the tiny plant tags, or hunt for the gingko tree (Gingko biloba) and the Lebanon Cedar (Cedrus libani). There also is a small zoo on site, la Ménagerie, that dates back to 1794. Today, art déco buildings and enclosures house some 1800 animals, from spiders to orangutans. For even more on animals and earth sciences, make sure you visit the Muséum d'Histoire Naturelle's different galleries.

15. Eglise Saint-Médard
The Church of Saint-Médard was built between the 15th and the 18th centuries on the site of a 9th century chapel. It was here that the rue Mouffetard crossed the river Bièvre, one of the Seine's tributaries. There is a busy and colourful albeit expensive daily market that stretches up the rue Mouffetard from the Church of Saint Médard. Dance aficionados also hit the pavement and sway to guinguette tunes on weekends.

 

 

Running Tour 2: The Banks of the Seine (10 to 20 km)

Running Tour 2: The Banks of the Seine

 

You're going for an evening jog along the banks of the Seine, early morning is a good alternative. The rest of the time, it's probably too busy. I've run this course since I was a teenager, and I never get tired of it. You'll have to cross a few bridges to enjoy some the most beautiful landmarks of our great city. This running circuit should take you about an hour, a slow pace 10 kilometre full of sights to behold. There are enough straight lines for some speed work and stairs for hill training. Your feet are going to hit asphalt, a few cobblestones (but not too many if you stop at the Pont des Arts). There are enough detours and gardens along the way to stretch the distance to at least 20 kilometres, which should be enough for a weekend long run.

Cross the Seine and keep a good pace on the left bank until the first bridge after the Tour Eiffel. Cross over again and keep jogging to the Concorde, then the Louvre. Stretch out and relax. Get some drinks from the museum's food court. Cross to the other bank. Jog all the way back, past the Musée d'Orsay and the Assemblée Nationale.

1. Pont de Bir Hakeim
The Bridge of Bir Hakeim was completed in 1905. Notice the upper level metro viaduct supported by steel colonnades, and the four monumental stone statues. Bir Hakeim was an oasis crossroads in the Libyan desert held by the French Foreign Legion against overwhelming Axis forces in June 1942. The defenders were eventually overrun. The victors who chose to disobey orders to execute them to the last gave them instead equal water rations. There will be plenty of opportunities to buy drinks, ice cream and chien chaud (hot dog) on the way so there is no need to carry your weight in water.

2. Allée des Cygnes
Warm up on the Alley of Swans but watch out for dog pooh. It's a nice tree shaded artificial island all the way to the Statue de la Liberté. This faithful 22 metre high one fifth replica was given by the United States to France to commemorate the centennial of the French revolution in 1889. Start at a leisurely pace on the left bank until you reach the Tour Eiffel. You can jog back along the left bank or trace back your footsteps.

3. Jardins du Trocadéro
Keep a leisurely pace on the left bank as you pass the Port de Suffren (Suffren Harbour), lined with Paris cruise ships and floating restaurants. As you reach the Eiffel Tower, cross the Pont d'Iéna over to the Jardins du Trocadéro (Trocadéro Gardens). The bridge, completed in 1814, was built by Napoléon to commemorate his defeat of the Prussians. Notice the four warriors and the Imperial Eagle. The new Palais de Chaillot, built for the 1937 Universal Exhibition sits on top the hill of Chaillot, one of the more exclusive, but rather quiet, residential areas of Paris.

4. Palais de Tokyo
Climb up the stairs and frolic around the fountains and columns of the the Palais de Tokyo, which houses the impressive 20th century art collections of the City of Paris. This Art Deco building was completed for the 1937 Universal Exhibition. Get a drink and a snack from the museum's café to keep you going.

5. Grand Palais des Champs-Elysées
Commonly known as the Grand Palais, the Great Palace was built in neoclassical Beaux-Arts architecture for the 1900 Universal Exposition. Massive art exhibitions gathering works from the world's greatest museums are held here, and have included Monet paintings (a million visitors).

6. Place de la Concorde
Originally named after King Louis XV in 1755, the square became Place de la Révolution to oversee the beheading of the royals at its centre where a guillotine was erected. Famous revolutionaries soon followed after the purges. Under le Règne de la Terreur, more than a thousand people were executed in a single month. This has not dissuaded present day jet setters from swarming the Hotel de Crillon overlooking the square. The obelisk standing at the centre was made in Egypt some 3,300 years ago and stood guard with its twin at Luxor Temple. Egypt offered the obelisks to France in 1829. Without doubt, the Obelisk de la Concorde has brought some pharaonic serenity to an otherwise tumultuous historic square. In the 1990s, as a symbolic gesture, France officially renounced the other obelisk.

7. Jardin des Tuileries
A World Heritage Site, le Jardin des Tuileries is the oldest French style garden in Paris. Originally an Italian garden, les Tuileries were entirely redrawn by André Le Nôtre in 1664 upon the order of Louis XIV. Le Nôtre had already distinguished himself with countless creations, including the gardens of Versailles. Grab a drink here as there are several conveniently located kiosks around the garden.

8. Musée du Louvre
Slow your pace as you circle the pyramid of the Grand Louvre and admire the perspective through the Tuileries, the Place de la Concorde, the Champs Elysées, the Arc de Triomphe, all the way to the Grande Arche de la Défense. Built on the foundations of a 12th century fortress, this former Palace eventually became a museum after the French Revolution. Enjoy the tranquility of the evening lights in the Cour Carrée. I.M. Pei's glass pyramid was completed in 1989. Initially much decried by conservatives for its modernity, the pyramid has become a classic landmark of Paris. The idea of building a pyramid here dates back to the early 19th century as a tribute to the French Revolution and Napoléon.. Can you spot all five pyramids of the Louvre?

9. Pont des Arts
As dusk sets in, the vista from the Pont des Arts (Bridge of Arts) on the Ile de la Cité is postcard perfect. These are moments when Paris shows more of herself, and when even jaded Parisians may slow down a little. The Pont des Arts, built by Napoléon, was the city's first metallic bridge. The original pedestrian bridge collapsed in 1979 after a string of collisions with boats and barges. The reconstructed bridge was inaugurated in 1994. You're halfway through the run, and some may rightly be tempted to wander off into the Quartier Latin for evening drinks and a good meal...

10. Musée d'Orsay
The Orsay rail station was completed for the 1900 Universal Exhibition. The challenge was to build modern infrastructures in an area dominated by classic architectures and the Louvre. From outside, the metallic structures remain hidden under a hotel façade. With the advent of electrification, the platforms became too short for modern trains. The station would only serve short distances to the suburbs. The museum, inaugurated in 1986, retains the beaux-art lines of the station, and is one of the city's iconic historic building.

11. Assemblée Nationale
The Palais Bourbon houses the French National Assembly. The Palace, built for one of the daughters of Louis XIV in the Versailles style, was Nationalised after the French Revolution. The added classical Greek facade was commissioned by Napoléon.

12. Esplanade des Invalides
The Hôtel National des Invalides was built under Louis XIV to house the veterans of the King's armies in 1670. Later, in these very buildings, the wounded would speak of the rise of an audacious young general in the 1796 Campaign of Italy. Napoléon Bonaparte would never forget his men and neither would they he. France's military heroes, including the Emperor himself, are buried here. If you've got a bit of hero stamina left, run the length of the park to the great man's tomb before heading further along the banks of the Seine.

13. Musée du Quai Branly
Inaugurated in 2006, the Musée du Quai Branly, which displays arts panning human cultures is the latest Addition to the list of major museums in Paris. Enjoy the breathing living green walls and the gardens.

14. Tour Eiffel
For the final sprint, run the length of the Champs de Mars (Field of Mars, the Roman God of War). Originally planned as grounds for the military drills of the Ecole Militaire, the military school from which Napoléon graduated, le Champs de Mars is presently more suited for concerts and picnics. The Champs de Mars hosted no fewer than four Universal Exhibitions, including the year 1889 when la Dame de Fer (the Iron Lady) was born.

 

AccuWeather.com

Paris Plage

Since the 1990s, every summer in July and August, Parisians go to the beach, right in their city. Paris Plage (Paris Beach) stretches over three kilometres on the banks of the Seine, from the Louvre to Sully's Bridge. With aquagym and beach balls, ice cream vans and barbeques, pumping hunks and buns of steels, every closet Parisian beach boy and girl can finally come out in the open. Visitors should pack sunscreen lotion, sunglasses and bikinis...>>

Paris Patins

Patins à roulettes (roller staking) have been popular in France since the 19th century. There are two major weekly "roller" (pronounce roll-air) excursions through the streets of Paris, and a least a dozen other unsanctioned wild urban rides. Families, children and those more likely to end on their bums should try the Sunday Roller & Coquillages (Seashells) under police and medic escort. Meet at around 2.00 pm at Place de la Bastille with 20,000 other people...>>