Phsar Shopping

Phsars, literally "markets" are where Phnom Penhers purchase anything from fresh fish and vegetables, tools for home improvements, jungle knifes for field expeditions, bibelots for friends and relatives, to CDs, DVDs and books. Phsars usually offer better deals than individual shops and shopping centres, although the latter would have the upper hand for electronics. Phsars tend to specialise in specific types of goods (garments, textiles, shoes, bags, watches, food etc) but usually offer a wide range of products. Those who have no taste for bartering and haggling are better off shopping at commercial centres where there is less variation in prices... It is best to shop at sun rise (6 or 7 am): shopkeepers believe that the first customers are to be treated fairly as they are good omen for the rest of the day. Foreigners tend to be charged higher prices than Cambodians, but it will probably not more than a few dollars. Unlike in other Southeast Asian countries, the starting price is customarily in the range of 10-20% of the going price. Thus, if a salesperson asks for ten dollars, his/her minimum price is closer to seven dollars than it is to five.

Phsar Chas

Phsar Chas, the "Old Market", was constructed in the 1920s, and together with the Grand Hotel form the historic core of the city of Siem Reap. The French Quarter and the provincial administrative offices were organised around Phsar Chas, with roads leading to the temples constructed at about the same period. Phsar Chas mainly caters to foreign visitors, although local city slickers are able to bargain Cambodian prices for the odd souvenir or t-shirt. There is a small vegetable and meat section, as well as some food stalls for freshly squeezed juices and basic dishes. Discerning collectors will be able to discover fine textiles, scarves, statues, carvings among the jumble of mass produced cheap trinkets for friends and families. There are precious rare curios to be found, as long as one as enough time to explore. Our preference goes to the book stalls which offer essential readings on Angkor and Khmer culture at a fraction of the prices one would find elsewhere.

Phsar Kandal

Phsar Kandal and the Chinese style shophouses located to the North of Siem Reap's French Quarter were completed just a few years ago. Clothes and souvenirs are generally more moderately priced than at Phsar Chas. However, moderate bargaining remains necessary: US $2-3 for a t-shirt, US $4-6 for a pair of sandals, US $10 for khaki trousers, US $10 for a backpack etc. Try purchasing fabric and have the seamstresses copy your favourite clothes with dazzling dexterity. We are regular patrons at the small food court which serves a variety of Khmer and Asian dishes at reasonable prices.

Phsar Leu Thom Thmey

Phsar Leu, the original Upper Market, a wooden structure, was torn down to be replaced by the "New Big Upper Market", located along National Road 6 on the outskirts of Siem Reap. Phsar Leu is the largest market in Siem Reap Province and is a favourite of local city slickers for grocery shopping, everyday clothes, kitchenware, textiles by the meter (both imports and Khmer silk), camping equipment for out of town excursions, spare parts for motorbikes and cars, electronics, home improvements tools and just about anything. Some visitors may venture here for an occasional snapshot of the "Real Cambodia", as guidebooks in the know would advertise. A bit of sign language and our tips on Khmer idioms should be adequate for straightforward purchases.

Souvenir Shop Picks

Institute for Khmer Traditional Textiles (IKTT)

House #472, Road to Tonle Sap Lake, South of Siem Reap - Tel (063) 964 437

Go for: Khmer silk and textiles

"I like cooking. But it might be a bit misleading. Actually what I mean is that I like to eat delicious food," so writes Morimoto Kikuo on his blog at the Institute for Khmer Traditional Textiles. A native of Japan, Morimoto San has spent more than a decade in Cambodia exploring traditional silk fabrics and dye, and in his Japenglish lingua "tackling revival and activation". Honoured by His Majesty King Sihamoni for his contribution to the preservation of Cambodia's textiles, this yuzen master (Japanese silk weaving and dyeing) hailing from Kyoto, has set up a workshop with Khmer artisans where visitors may witness what beautiful patterns and arabesques "the memories of hands" can weave.

Khmer Angkor Art Workshop

Phum Tropeang Seh, NE Kantha Bopha Hospital, Siem Reap - Tel (012) 990 603

Go for: Wood carvings and stone sculptures

The term "Khmer Angkor" specifically refers to the Khmer of Angkor, i.e. the warrior builders, or their descendants, those living in the villages surrounding the temples of Angkor. A visit to the workshop shows throngs of young artisans carving figures from Khmer mythology out of wood and stone. Sculptures and statues are readily available for purchase but can also be tailored to order to snuggly fit your curio cabinet back home. Giant statues for pagodas or private gardens take several months to complete, and can later be shipped with the necessary customs paperwork to your palatial residence. Prices at Khmer Angkor have been reasonable when compared to other carving workshops in Siem Reap, without undermining quality craftsmanship.

Rajana

#153 Sivatha Boulevard, Siem Reap - Tel (012) 481 894

Go for: Silk, silver and spices

Rajana is a non profit association of Cambodian artisan which tries to promote income generation while preserving traditional crafts. Rajana stands in Khmer for art, artists, design or artistically creative. The association has a few outlets in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap where small producers are able to sell , silk scarves and wall hangings, earrings, necklaces and other jewelry.

Lo Yuyu

Off National Road 6, Road to Bakong - Tel (012) 576 715

Go for: Cups, mugs, plates, vases and other traditional Khmer ceramics

On the road to Prasat Bakong, just off National Road 6, one may easily overlook a group of small bungalows on the right hand side. With donor support, this small association of Cambodian potters and artists has painstakingly tried to rediscover and preserve Khmer ceramics. Mainly trendy hotels and restaurants in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh order their signature cocktail vases and coffee cups from this workshop. The shapes and colours are unmistakenly Khmer and provide an opportunity for a bit of shopping while temple hopping.