Gnarfgnarf restaurants in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Road stall food, stall food road, road food stall

Fried Kuay Teow

Asam Laksa: noodles in spicy fish broth

Chicken and sausages, good if you have a strong stomach

Shaven Ice Kachang: red beans, jelly, fruit slices, lots of syrup, condensed sweet
milk, and you name it

AMAZING FOOD AND WHERE TO GET IT

Being the capital city of multi-cultural Malaysia, KL offers food and dishes of Malay, Indian and Chinese variety. The wave of globalization has also swept in a number of good Western dining spots in KL. I have eaten Malaysian cuisine all my life and will recommend only the best to you, the adventurous visitor. Be forewarned though, Malaysian food can be very spicy. I can only suggest to the chilly-phobic diner to always have some cold water (and some mints if possible) by your side when you try something new. Here are the best of the best cheap foods in Tanahairku (Malay for 'my heartland'). They are very easily available in coffee shops throughout KL and other Malaysian states. The coffee shops and food stalls in KL usually open from 8am all the way to 9 or 10pm. So you don't have to eat three times a day only. Expect busy crowds, high temperatures and a lot of shouting during lunch-hour.

Nasi Lemak

Roadside stalls littered throughout the country offer the best Nasi Lemak (Fatty rice). This authentic Malay creation comprises fragrant coconut rice with a dash of crispy nuts, a generous dollop of Sambal Ikan Bilis (spicy anchovies), a fried egg and, depending on what's the catch of the day, either a fried chicken wing or a fried little Kampong (village) fish. The dish also includes slices of cool cucumbers. Bring your own napkins for added hygiene and choose the stalls that are safely away from dusty roads and clogged drains. Having said that, those closest to these roads and drains often serve the best Nasi. So if you don't want to miss out on the true Malaysian brunch, bring a strong stomach.

Price - not more than US $1.50 if you're eating from a road stall.

For those who desire air-conditioned surroundings, go to Madam Kwan's café at Bangsar for fantastic Nasi Lemak. There is another branch at KLCC shopping mall. Be prepared to pay at least US $3-4 for Nasi Lemak here (it's worth it though, as the portions are generous).

Asam Laksa

Another 'must-eat' in Kuala Lumpur is the Asam Laksa (no English translation available). Asam denotes something that is sweet, spicy and sour at the same time, thus sending your taste buds to heaven first and then hell later when the chilies strike. Laksa simply means that the dish is noodle-based with a soup background, often spicy. The noodles in Asam Laksa are slender white cylindrical noodles and the soup is basically a deep red broth filled with sardines, pineapples for the added itchy twang, and onions for the anti-social breath. Another must try is the Curry Laksa, brother of the Asam Laksa. The Curry Laksa is self explanatory. Very spicy and the soup is creamy due to the coconut milk (hence loose-poo caution applies for the weaker ones). Filled with Taupok (dried bean curd) which functions as a sponge in the dish. Being porous, the Taupok soaks up the hot soup and like an M&M chocolate, does its magic when you chew on it. Both Asam and Curry Laksa are available at most coffee shops in KL.

Price - not more than US $2 per bowl.

If you want to pamper yourself, and I recommend that you do, go to Little Penang at Mid-Valley Megamall. Little Penang is a nice olden-day styled coffee shop that serves excellent Laksa. Portions are enormous and surroundings are air-conditioned. The food here is very authentic, spicy and should not be missed at all costs. Be prepared to pay a little more for food here.

Hokkien Mee

Yet another specialty is the Hokkien Mee (Hokkien describes a Chinese province, and Mee simply denotes noodle). This is definitely not for the health freak. Fat yellow noodles are fried in a huge wok over a volcanic fire. The chef will add loads of garlic, black thick Soya sauce, pork, prawns and squid (only if he knows you) and best of all Chee Yau Tza (fried pork fat) for heightened flavor. A variation of Hokkien Mee is the Fried Kuay Teow (Kuay Teow denotes flattened white noodles). Still a very greasy and delicious dish but minus the Chee Yau Tza, so it's a little healthier. Very yummy and you can ask for extra chilies and See Hum (cockles).

Price - not more than US $2.50 per portion.

Roti Canai

Roti Canai (Roti means bread, no English equivalent of Canai). Roti Canai is an amazing Malaysian Indian creation. The chef, often a huge Indian chap wearing nothing but a singlet and sarong (cloth casually draped around the waste, careful because unsightly body parts may be revealed in the event of strong wind). With exacting skill and strength, the Roti chef takes a lump of oiled dough, rubs and kneads it with his knuckles until the dough is flat and round. He then tosses the dough on a heated pan until crispy and fragrant. The Roti Canai is served with a curry dip, Dhal (bean curry, careful the post-Roti flatulence) or fish, chicken, mutton curry gravy. Very yummy! You can have egg with your Roti if you want.

Price - not more than US $0.50 per Roti

Luk-Luk

This is good for a snack. Often served by converted vans by busy roads. Basically, you pick a variety of items (fishballs, squidballs, meat, vegetables) that have spokes through them (like a skewer) and you dip the spoke into a communal cauldron filled with fragrant soup. The boiling soup cooks the food on the spoke and after being submerged for a few seconds (longer, if medium rare does not suit you), the spoke is removed and dipped into yet another communal bowl of chilly for added taste. Very delicious. Great concept. Have ten spokes if you have time, or one if you're in a rush. No real hygiene worry because the soup is really hot and would kill any germ.

Price - varies with number of spoke and item on the spoke. Fish balls are cheaper that fresh squid. Often not more than US $0.25 per spoke so eat your heart out!!

Satay

Speaking of spokes, you can't miss the Satay (Malay skewer). A spoke is pierced through several types of meat, chicken, beef, lamb but no pork because this is a Malay delicacy. Duck Satay is a little rare but have a go if you find a stall that serves it. The Satay are barbequed over a charcoal grill. You normally dip it into a spicy peanut sauce. Don't throw the used spokes because you're supposed to use it as a fork to pick up onions, cucumbers and Ketupat (Malay compressed rice cubes - delicious with the sauce). Although traditionally a Malay dish, the Chinese have invaded the Satay market. In Malaysia, Satay from Malay or Chinese stalls are often equally good.

Price - not more than US $0.25 per spoke. I have eaten 65 at one go when I was starving but stick to 10 first. Satay is a great dish to share among groups of friends or family.

Banana leaf curry rice

Banana leaf curry rice - self explanatory. Go to any Indian Banana leaf restaurant. Again, these are all over KL. An Indian waiter will usually sit you down and place a banana leaf on your table. He will then ask you what sort of meats and vegetables you want. He returns with a rice bowl and plops two or three servings of steaming rice onto your leaf-cum-plate, adds garnish like chutney, onions and sambal He leaves. He returns a second time with the meats you've ordered. No forks, spoons or knives please. A true Banana experience is never complete if you don't eat with your fingers.

Price - not more than US $3 (expect to pay more for air-conditioned surroundings).

Tandoori Chicken

This is another Indian dish. It is also a relatively healthy option (for those who are concerned about their fat intake). Succulent pieces of chicken thigh are charcoal-grilled in a specialized oven after being professionally marinated in spices, yogurt and a whole host of secret ingredients for many hours. Make sure you eat only Tandoori that is cooked by a guru. Those who have not mastered the Tandoori art tend to over grill the chicken, leaving it dry and hard. You don't want to waste your time and teeth on those.

Price - depending on how much you devour (but not more than US $4 on average)

My personal favorite is the Tandoori chicken at Davis' Corner at Bangsar. The chicken here is has the right amount of moisture and taste. Complement your poultry with the Naan that is served here and you will experience culinary heaven on earth!

Yong Tau Foo

Yong Tau Foo (stuffed bean curd) - this is a healthy Chinese dish. Very unique. Ladyfingers, chilies, bean curd cubes, bittergourd and brinjals (aubergines) are stuffed with minced pork and cooked in a soup. Served with a sweet sauce or chilly dip. Very tasty. Better to go to a Yong Tau Foo stall with a Hakka chef (Hakka denotes a group of Chinese whose ancestors in mainland China were nomadic) as this dish is their forte.

Price - not more than US $2.50 per person. More if you order loads.

You can get this dish anywhere in KL but Ampang Road boasts of the best YTF ever!