Gnarfgnarf sights of Phnom Penh, Cambodia

National Museum

Aux Marches du Palais

Wat Phnom

River Banks

SIGHTS

Musée des Beaux Arts - National Museum

Rue 13. Between 178 and 184

Open: 7.00-11.30 - 14.00-17.30

Admission: US $2.00 - Camera US $2.00

Go for: The Elder Gods

The Musée is a shadow of its former collections, just like Cambodia is a shadow of the Khmer Kingdoms. On your way to Angkor, the old city of Nakor, you will find here pieces of our broken heritage. The names still resound with pride as the tale of Funan, Chenla and Angkor are told. Giant statues tower over puny visitors as they sip refreshments in the courtyard. Try to get an archeology student from the nearby Ecole des Beaux Arts (Royal University of Fine Arts) to guide you through the galleries. Some say old stones whisper to the Khmer soul.

Palais Royal - Royal Palace

Boulevard Samdech Sothearos

Admission: US $3.00 - Camera US $2.00 - Video US $5.00

Go for: The legendary White Elephant

The palace was built in 1866 by His Majesty King Norodom. It has been the official residence of the royal family since then. Cambodia is now a constitutional monarchy, with the sovereign exercising minimal power over the destiny of the country. The Royal Household staff wears the traditional kben, a highly complicated pair of trousers that takes hours to don. Each day of the week corresponds to a different palace color, and hence to a different kben. The Silver Pagoda, Wat Preah Kaeo, contains an emerald Buddha, a symbol of the Khmer King's regalia. Any historian will tell you that the real Emerald Buddha was captured at the fall of Angkor and taken to Siam. There is an old prophecy that says that peace and happiness will return to Cambodia only with the return of the true regalia. As for the White Elephant...

Wat Phnom - Pagoda on the Mount

Boulevard Tou Samoth

Entrance: US $1.00, sometimes free

Go for: Altar of Grandma Penh

The "pagoda on the inselberg" (technically that is what a phnom is!) has an altar of Yie Penh, the spiritual grandmother of all Phnom Penhers. It is not clear when she founded our home city, some historians say around the end of the twelve century, others say much later. The pagoda is really busy during Buddhist holidays, which are occasions for religious celebration as well as other kinds of celebration.

Mouat Tonle - River Banks

Price: Free!

Go for: Stroll and boat race in November

The river front, or literally translated the river mouth, is a favorite stroll for all city slickers. Week-ends see huge crowds peacefully strolling, eating, chatting, laughing, and holding hands. Try some kroap chhouk - lotus flowers, it is a cheap way to get happy. Street vendors also offer mouthwatering grilled chicken and beef skewers. And for the lucky ones who are in Phnom Penh in November, there is the dragon boat race. As long as one can remember, villagers from all over Cambodia have sent boats and crews to race at Angkor and Phnom Penh. Some row for several weeks to get to the city. Women, men, grannies and children , from the same village row on the same boat. The race marks happily the reversal of the flow of the Tonle Mekong. Nobody cares who wins, most crews are so destitute they do not have any shirts, let alone computer designed Kevlar power oars. The race is about tradition, about happiness and the unreasonable hope that things will get better.

Toul Sleng

Corner of Street 113 and Street 350

Price: Your sanity and your faith in humankind

Go for: Only if you have a strong stomach

The ghosts and the tortured souls of the victims of the Khmer rouge still haunt the corridors of this high school turned into living hell. This genocide museum is not for the faint hearted. There is not a Cambodian that has not lost members of his family to the killing fields, not one. And never forget that the perpetrators of these abominations still walk freely. Have a nice day.