Gnarfgnarf hotels in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Golden Age at Ze Royal

Cyclos will take you anywhere for American $

HOTELS

We've put up a bit of everything down here. From super ultra hugely luxurious hotels that none of us can afford to cheap but comfortable and safe guest houses. As a matter of fact, we're Phnom Penhers, remember? So we've actually never had to sleep in a hotel in our native city! But no worries, we've checked the places and talked to foreign friends who have stayed in Phnom Penh.

air conditioner or mosquito net?

Hotel Le Royal

Rue 52 - Boulevard Monivong

(23) 981 888

web site

Price: Cart drivers or more specifically limo drivers

US $250 to US $2000(!)

Crowd: UN overlords, World Bank majority shareholders, corporate tycoons, very rich people

Go for: Luxury in style

"Step into Hotel Le Royal and relive the romance of the Golden Age of Travel: Built in the late 1920s and sensitively restored to its original heyday, it stands among the few remaining hotels in the world." It sounds very much like corporate codswallop, but it might actually be true. It seems that the Royal belongs to another dimension. In one of the poorest countries of the world here stands an establishment that would match any rival in the Western World. In fact like most upscale hotels in Phnom Penh, management and ownership are foreign.

The service is outstanding, the food is outstanding (although we could only afford the juice bar), and the atmosphere is subtle. Avoid the buffet food and go directly for the restaurants. If you are on the pay roll of a big multinational lending agency and want to splash into luxury, this is definitely the place in Cambodia (with the possible exception of the Grand Hotel d'Angkor in Siem Reap).

Hotel Sofitel Cambodiana

313 Quai Sisowath

(023) 426 288

web site

Price: Cart drivers - US$ 120 to US$ 400

Crowd: UN Staff, European Union Diplomats, Japanese and Western tourists on guided tours

Go for: French pastries, Room with a view on the river

The French operated Cambodiana was for several years at the highest end of the market. With six restaurants and the usual combination of spa-pool-tennis, it remains a luxury hotel to reckon with. The rooms on the river are the absolute choice. After six o'clock, the plebeians like us can taste French cakes and bread at discount prices. It's big and it's suite (sweet, get it?).

Mi Casa

313 Quai Sisowath

(023) 214 555

Price: Cart drivers - US$ 90 to US$ 215

Crowd: Businessmen, consultants on long haul, families

Go for: Tennis court, View on the river

Right next to Cambodiana, this relatively new comer has good facilities for sports, a great garden overlooking the river and an airy lobby. People on long hauls looking for luxury serviced apartments will be satisfied by staff competence, convenient location and Australian oysters served regularly at the buffet.

Sunway Hotel

1 Rue 92 - Opposite Wat Phnom

(023) 430 333

web site

Price: Cart drivers - US$ 65 to US$ 240

Crowd: International consultants, aid industry and tourists

Go for: Best doughnuts in town

This is an unpretentious, professionally run middle to high end establishment with a view on the Pagoda on the Mount. Extremely popular for conferences, it can get quite busy. The walls are pink or pinkish. The doughnuts are good, the pastries are outstanding. You can order your cakes in advance and to your taste (sweet, super sweet, no cherries, double amount of chocolate etc.). Possibly the best Black Forest Cake in town, show up after six to get a discount. The buffet is good value for money if you have a moderately huge appetite. Also try "High Tea", where $6.00 you get tea or coffee plus a cold snack buffet with scones and cream.

Renakse Hotel

40 Rue Sothearos - Opposite the Royal Palace

(023) 722 457

Price: Average US $30 - US $35

Crowd: Tourists and a few lonely consultants

Go for: Reminiscence of the French Protectorate, great location next to the Royal Household

"Ah, ze Renakse." Don't ask us what it means, it's definitely a Khmer name. Our great-grandfathers and grandfathers worked here at the Bureau du Protectorat Francais. About a hundred years ago, the building was a bustling hive of French Colonial Administration. The owner is a Cambodian lady who speaks French fluently. Some rooms are excellent, some are not so excellent, it's safer to check before you move in. If you are looking for a "quaint", historical place with dust, this is it. This is a quiet building with an "out of Asia" aftertaste. Sitting under the fans of the grand salon you expect a great white hunter to walk in any time. There's a little restaurant in the garden which serves Cambodian and French dishes. It has beer as well. At night, the lights of the Palace are strangely nostalgic.

Del Gusto Guest House

43 Rue 95. Not far from S-21, but far enough to avoid bad vibes. website

Price: US $10

Crowd: Backpackers

Go for: Safe, very clean, and excellent food.

Better known for their restaurant (see our food section), this guest house has a few clean and affordable rooms in a traditional Khmer wooden house. Friendly staff, excellent food. You can book by internet.

Narin Guest House

50 Rue 125 - Near O'Russei Market

Price: US $10

Crowd: Backpackers

Go for: Safe, clean, and good food.

There are some rooms with air-con and private toilets available. Otherwise for all guesthouses you'd better get a mosquito net (they're dirt cheap and can be found anywhere). This is a popular place with cart drivers and deservingly so as far as we could see.

Last Home

47 Rue 108

(023) 724 917

Price: US $6

Crowd: Backpackers

Go for: Safe and clean

This is closer to the old market, so it's not far from the River and relatively central. It has a restaurant and some books if you can read.