Gnarfgnarf activities in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Chaktomuk Ballet Hall

Apsara Sor

Bargains at Psah Thmei

Water Festival

ACTIVITIES

National and Royal Ballet

Chatomuk, located by the river and south of the palace, is the home of the ballet company of the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts. The theatre was built at the apogee of the Sihanouk era in the 1960s and still has an atmosphere of dernière séance. A more modern and spacious theatre was completed a few years ago, but a mysterious fire destroyed it. Chatomuk had its share of prestigious foreign guests and performers. Like many other things in Cambodia, it is full of nostalgia for times long gone. Our parents and grandparents came here before us, and we like it because of the non-assuming and down to earth way shows are organized. Various episodes of the Reamker, or Khmer Ramayana, are performed here, often with live musicians and singers. The audience is friendly and so are the actors and dancers.

Very few people have had the privilege to attend a classical Ramayana performance by the Royal Ballet. The company belongs to the Royal household and performs only on special occasions. The Apsara Sor, or white apsara, is the equivalent of the danceuse étoile of the troupe. She is the embodiment of Khmer culture and the ideal of beauty with all the possible attributes of intellect, culture, and refinement. Apsara have been trained in Cambodia for over twelve centuries. To become an apsara is to devote one's life, from early childhood, to rigorous physical and artistic training.

Singing

Many will be surprised to find out that forgotten occidental classics such as “Love you more than I can say” and “Streets of San Francisco” are popular karaoke songs in Cambodia. Both Khmer and English versions are usually available. Karaoke is arguably the most popular Khmer pastime. Westerners are often surprised to discover that given the opportunity, the average Cambodian will gladly make his voice heard. There is in fact no such thing as closet singers in Cambodia, only karaoke singers. Karaoke is practiced in groups of friends in private booths. Drinks and food is ordered: beer, wine, juices and fresh fruits. After a few cans everybody is expected to shake a leg or an arm while somebody sings. If you get the opportunity, go karaoke with Cambodians and ask them to perform classic 1960s and 1970s songs by Son Sin Samut. Other favorites include romantic duets between a male and female singer, which is usually an endless source of gossips and innuendos. Air-conditioned karaoke rooms are usually priced at US $5 per hour.

Dancing

Sorry if we cannot provide you with a longer list of clubs, but generally, Cambodians dance at weddings, private parties or karaoke bars. There are seedy bars and clubs aplenty, and you will find them on your own easily. A mainstream music restaurant/bar where ladies may feel more comfortable is Riverhouse, on Quai Sisowath at the corner of Rue 110. It has excellent cousous as well (the portions are so big, you need only order one for two if you are a normal size human being).

Shopping at the Psah

The psah are markets where you can get anything from jungle knifes for field expedition, bibelots for work colleagues, to CDs for your latest playstation.

PSAH THMEI - New Market / Marché Central

This French designed yellow art deco building is worth a visit. It is a perfect example of early environmental architecture. The temperature stays relatively cool without the need for air conditioners or fans. The market is called by Phnom Penhners, Psah Neak Mean, which means the Market of the Rich People. Psah Thmei is popular with tourists and city slickers alike. But true enough, there are more beggars and veteran amputees waiting for the generosity of foreigners than anywhere else. You will want to load up on cheap trinkets for friends and family. Bargain if you are ruthless and selfish: US $2-3 for a t-shirt, US $4-6 for a pair of Nike sandals, US $10 for GAP combat trousers, US $10 for a North Face backpack etc. These are the genuine articles not copies. The garment industry is booming in Cambodia and sub-contracts for all the western labels you can think of. Get a few silver animals as well, typically Khmer, they will look great in your cottage back in England. And of course load up on a collection of traditional multihued Krama, a Cambodian scarf worn by farmers.

PSAH TUOL TOM PONG

The market is a gold mine for the latest CDs, DVDs, computer games and other music tapes. By latest, we mean, before it comes out at your local video store back in Europe. Name it, you get it. The best thing is to have a list ready and to give it in advance to one of the old ladies. Pick up your order a few days later. We like the old ladies better, they understand customer service. Don't look like a fool by arguing prices. US $2 per CD is the standard rate. Nobody is going to cheat you here. Careful though, approximately 10% of CDs are not usable. Small price to pay, right? There are a few stalls for real silver animals, much more expensive than at Psah Thmei, but this is pure silver.

Excursions around Phnom Penh

Within an hour or so of the city, there are a number of archeological sites that are worth a trip if you have not been to Angkor or if you are a culture buff. The safest and most comfortable way to get there is to rent a car (they all come with chauffeur, ah!) for twenty dollars a day for 12 hours. The car will take you anywhere you want inside and outside the city. As usual, we only list our favorite sites, which will give you a taste of what to expect at Angkor.

PHNOM CHISOR

Angkorian temple built on an inselberg, 50 kilometers south of Phnom Penh. The vista is stupendous, and you can still see the massive stairways used by pilgrims (this is the hard way to get up there, it's easier to use the modern staircase at the back of the Phnom).

TONLE BATI

Much Bigger than Phnom Chisor, and much more touristy. Some 30 kilometers south of Phnom Penh, but the road is not comfortable. The two temples were built by King Jayavarman VII. A large lake nearby.